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Denim – Common Fit Issue #1 – Back Waist Gapping

Denim – Common Fit Issue #1 – Back Waist Gapping


Hey friends! Back waist gapping- it’s the worst. I know it’s happened to all of us, it’s when
you sit down, and your back pant just slides all the way down, and all of a sudden your
underwear is on display! It’s the worst! So, there are a couple reasons why this happens. As with everything that we do when we sew,
and with fitting, it’s usually not just one problem, it’s probably several, all acting
in concert. And this requires that we problem solve. So when this happens to me, there are three
main things that I look for to make sure that I’m addressing this problem correctly. The very first one, and the most important,
is my back rise long enough for the amount of coverage that I need for my backside. So, you are going to evaluate this in the
mirror, sit down and see how much it shifts down, and then you may need to add that full
amount, maybe even just half of that, depending on your fabrication. What you do with your piece, your pattern
piece, is you are going to slash and spread from the hip line. Your hinge point is going to be on your outseam,
and then you just open it up the amount that you need, and then fill that in, and then
that should lengthen your back rise appropriately. You can also add to the top of the back rise,
and blend to 0 at the outseam, but if you do this, just be aware that you’re going to
need to check your transition point at the seams to make sure that you don’t end up with
a center back peak. So, that is point number one. Point number two, is, what type of waistband
do you have? If you have a very curvy figure type, you
may find that contour waistbands work better for you than straight waistbands cut on the
fold. If that’s the case, I’m going to link to a
really really excellent tutorial for how to change a straight waistband to a contour waistband. A contour waistband is shaped like a “C”,
and kind of gives you a little bit more bias to utilize in the fabric as it goes around
your body. It’s more forgiving, especially for curvier
figure types. You can do this with two pieces, so, the entire
piece and then the inside panel, or four pieces, if you need to seam it at center back to give
yourself a little bit of extra fit ability. A contour waistband, I will say, I just want
to warn you that it should be cut so the circumference of the waistband goes along with the circumference
grain of your pant leg. This is so that the shrinkage is the same,
and I’m going to put a diagram here so that you can understand what I mean. So the center back should be cut *ON THE LENGTH GRAIN*, and then as it goes around, you’ll utilize the bias of that stretch around the
front of your hips, where you really kind of need it the most. The very third thing that I’m going to look
for when I’m evaluating for back waist gapping, is if the leg panel is too tight. Sometimes, if the leg panel is tight, it will
grip on your calf, or your thigh, and it will pull the whole pant down. Because always, things are looking for the
narrowest point, especially if they have a lot of stretch in them. So, check your leg when you’re looking at
back waist gapping. When you’re fitting a pant always make sure
that you’re sitting down, and crouching, and kind of doing your regular stuff, so that
way you can evaluate those problems as they come up. One really easy way to tell if you have a
very good looking leg panel, but you’re not quite sure if it’s too tight or not, walk
around a little bit. If you find that you’re reaching for the back
to kind of pull it up by the back beltloops, or tug it up at the back, because it’s moving
down on your body, that is a probably a good indication that it’s grabbing somewhere on
the leg and is pulling the whole thing down. So those are the three major points that I
would look for when I’m evaluating for back waist gapping. Of course, there are other reasons, but those
are the main three. Hope this is helpful!

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