This is the Teach Me Fashion Pencil Skirt There are only three pattern pieces to this skirt. First we are going to mark the ends of the darts using hand sewing needle and thread Then you can notch the darts that match the size you choose and notch all the seam allowances and hems Remove the pattern pieces carefully, cutting through the thread that marks the end of the darts. Now separate the fabric pieces carefully, cutting through the threads again as you go. Pin these darts into position There are two on each side of the center back and four on the center front, so make sure you do all the darts. This is one side of the back that I have prepared before Go to the machine and stitch all the darts from the outside edge to the point Reverse carefully over your stitching line for a few stitches, this will secure the end of the dart. If you don’t reverse over your stitching line you will end up with a dart not looking to smooth at the point. Remove the threads that you used to mark the points Now neaten all your seams by using a zigzag stitch or an overlocker if you have one. Press all the darts towards the center front or the center back respectively. Now place your center back seams with right sides together, and pin from the zipper notch to the vent opening. Make sure you have checked the length of your zip and that it matches the notch mark, if not adjust this accordingly Remember the tape of the zip sits at the top edge of your seam. We are going to put in a welt zip, you could use an invisible zip if you prefer. I demonstrate putting in an invisible zip in the Peplum Dress video so you can refer to that. Take your zip and place it face side down on the right side of the seam allowance, pin into place. Now using your zipper foot, and making sure it is up against the teeth of the zip, stitch to the bottom of the zip. This row of stitching should line up with your center back seam line. You will notice I have sewn with the zip open, closing it towards the end. This allows you to sew a smooth seam and not be fouled by the zipper pull. Now fold the other seam allowance over the zip and pin into position, this forms the welt. Again I start with the zip open and after I have sewn a few centimeters or an inch, leave the needle in, lift the foot, do the zip up, put the foot back down and continue sewing to the end of the zip. Leave the needle in at the end of the zip, lift the foot, turn the garment so you are at right angles to the stitching line, put the foot down and stitch across to the seam line. Reverse a couple of stitches to secure the stitching. Now with right sides together pin and stitch the side seams. If you are using a check make sure they match. Press your seam allowances open. Press the vent into place. I am clipping the seam at the top of the vent so the center back seam can be pressed open Measure up your hem and press lightly to hold into position. Measure up your vent and make sure both sides match. Now turn back the side that has been folded back on itself and pin into position ready to sew. Make sure you have fused your waistband using a lightweight fusing and that you have notched all your markings. With right sides together pin the waistband to the skirt. On the welt side the waistband will extend by the seam allowance. On the other side, it will extend by the extra amount and the seam allowance. This is where the button, or whatever fastening you choose will be sewn. Pin the remainder of the waistband to the skirt. Make sure the darts are facing towards the center front or the center back respectively. Go to the machine and stitch on the seam allowance line. Now fold the waistband back on itself at the welt end, it will extend past the seam by your seam allowance, stitch this seam into position Trim the seam allowance turn through to the right side. On the other end of the waistband I have folded it with right sides together, and stitched on the seam allowance line. Leaving the needle in, lifting the foot, turn at right angles and stitch on the waistband Trim and turn through to the outside. I have also stitched the top of the vent down to hold it in position. Now bag out the hem of the vent that you pinned before. Trim away the excess seam allowance as I have done here. Do not trim past where the vent folds back. Neaten the hem using an overlocker or a zigzag stitch. Trim the waistband seam allowance back in layers so you do not have a single line of bulk. Press the seam allowance up and pin it into position. Press and pin up the hem while you are at the iron. Stitch the hem and the waistband using a hand sewing needle. I am showing you the position of the button and the button hole but you can choose whatever fastening you like.