This is the Teach Me Fashion Tweed Jacket. This is a more complicated and advanced garment than most of what we have done previously. It involves the use of piping and lining. Notch all your pattern pieces to mark your seam allowances. You will notice throughout this video that I have completed parts of the jacket before recording, This will help speed things up and won’t affect the instructional outcome. The pattern pieces you see here also include the lining pieces. You will also notice I have used a checked fabric which makes things even more difficult, because you need to make sure to match you checks when cutting out your pattern pieces, and then be careful when you sew the pieces together. Mark the pockets using a pin. I have fused all the jacket pieces except the sleeves, to keep the sleeves soft. This includes the pocket flaps. I have made these pockets fake to save further complications, but if you are an experienced sewer you could make them functional. I have completed this pocket earlier. The piping I am using is purchased but you could make your own using a bias strip of fabric and piping cord, held in position using a zipper foot stitching right up close to the cord. I have also made a template of the finished pocket to help guide my sewing of the piping. Pin this template onto the right side of the pocket and pin the piping around the edge. Using your zipper foot, stitch the piping into position on your stitching line. Check to make sure it is even. Now place the lining piece with right sides together and stitch on the same line that holds the piping in place. Trim the seam allowance and turn the pocket through to the right side. Press the pocket flat. Repeat this process for your other pocket flap. Position the pocket onto the jacket front with right sides together and pin into position. If you are using checks make sure the checks match. Go to the sewing machine and stitch the flap onto the jacket making sure you reinforce both ends of the machining line. Do not stitch past the flap on either end or you will see the stitching when you fold the flap up. Trim the seam allowance back and fold the pocket up into position. Using pins cover the seam allowance. Now thread up a hand sewing needle and thread and stitch the lining of the pocket onto the jacket. This will cover the seam allowance and hold the pocket in position. Make sure you do both pockets. Pin the back and the fronts of the jacket with right sides together at both shoulder seams and side seams. I am just repressing the fusing here that hasn’t quite stuck completely. As you can see I have already started to sew the band onto the jacket to speed things up. I have sewn the piping onto the jacket band using the same method as I used on the pocket flap. Before you sew the piping onto the jacket band, make sure you stitch the band together at the shoulder seams. Go to your sewing machine and stitch the shoulder and side seams together on the seam allowance lines. Now pin the band onto the jacket making sure the shoulder seams match and you have right sides together. I am clipping the bands seam allowance on the front curve to make it easier to sew. You will notice the band finishes shorter than the jacket at the front, this is because the band is bagged out and the jacket itself has a hem allowance. Using your zipper foot stitch the band to the jacket all the way around. Now pin and stitch the piping on the outside edge of the band, you need to make sure you keep this even all the way around. Now let’s go to the sleeves, The pin marks the notch that matches the shoulder seam of the jacket. With right sides together stitch the sleeve seams together. Now using a long stitch or a gathering stitch, do a row of stitching on the seam line around the head of the sleeve. We are going to use this to ease the sleeve head into the armhole. Pull it up slightly to hold the sleeve head shape. Put your jacket onto the stand if you have one. Pin the sleeve seam to the side seam of the jacket. Now move to the head of the sleeve and turning in the sleeve head seam allowance pin it onto the shoulder seam, right on the very edge to hold it’s position. Pull that E-stitch up slightly to help pin the rest of the sleeve into position. If you are using a check try to match the checks as closely as possible. Take the jacket off the stand, reach in to pull the pins out one by one, while holding the sleeve head in position, and re-pin the sleeve head with right sides together, so you can sew the sleeve into the jacket. Pin the sleeve all the way around the armhole. Go to the machine and stitch the sleeves in from the sleeve side, so you can control the ease and make sure you end up with no tucks. Now back to the iron and using water and the tips of your fingers, dampen just the seam allowance on the head of the sleeve where the ease is, and press using the tip of the iron, just on the seam allowance, it will shrink out the fullness. This doesn’t work with all fabrics but it works particularly well with wool. Trim this seam to even it up. You do not need to trim it right back, you just need to even it up. Press all your seams. Pin the facing sections of the band together at the shoulders. While you are at it pin the tuck of the center back neck of the lining and the shoulders and the side seams of the lining. You need the tuck in the back of the lining to allow for movement across the back, otherwise the lining may tear. Pin the sleeve lining with right sides together. Go to the machine and stitch the lining tuck into position by about 1.5 inches or 3 centimeters. Sew the shoulder seams, side seams and sleeve seams. Leaving a fairly large opening in one of the sleeve seams, to help give access to the inside of the jacket when you are finishing off the lining later. Sew an E-stitch onto the sleeve head of the lining, and matching side seams of the jacket with the sleeve seams and the notch at the head of the sleeve, with the shoulder seam, pin the sleeve lining into the lining armhole. It really doesn’t matter if there are a few gathers in the sleeve head of the lining. Sew this seam, just on the garment side of the gathering line with the sleeve facing up. Trim the seam allowance around the armhole of the lining, not too close, just enough to even it up. Now place the lining inside the jacket and push the sleeve lining into the sleeves of the jacket. Fold in the seam allowance of the lining and the jacket at the sleeve hem, and pin matching the sleeve seams. Make sure you can put your arm down the sleeve. This method guarantees the sleeve lining doesn’t twist. If it twists you can’t put your arm down the sleeve of the jacket. Pull this through to the outside and re-pin. Go to the machine and stitch the lining to the sleeve edge, do this for both sleeves. Now fold the hem of the sleeve up and using a hand sewing needle, catch the hem seam allowance down onto the jacket to hold the hem in place. Pull this through to the right side and you will see how the sleeve hem is finished off, and that there is a little pleat at the end of the lining. Press the sleeve hems. Now with right sides together stitch the band facing together at the shoulder seams. With right sides together pin this to the jacket, and using a zipper foot stitch so you can get right up against the piping. Trim the seam allowance back just on the garment side so all the seam allowances aren’t sitting on top of each other forming a thick line. Press this facing back. Now matching the shoulder seams of the lining to the shoulder seams of the band, pin the lining into position. Now pull through so you have right sides together, and re-pin into position all the way around from hem to hem. Stitch the lining to the front bands letting the tucks at the center back fold to one side. With right sides together pull the lining down to the hem. Pin across the bottom of the facing then pull the lining down to the hem allowance. Stitch, making sure you square across at the bands then dip down to the hem, until you are a few centimeters into the center back. Then to finish off the hem come through the armhole opening you have left in the sleeve lining, and finish sewing the lining to the hem across the center back, pull the jacket through to the outside. Turn the jacket out so that you can pin the hem up into position. Fold the hem and pin it to hold in place. Go back in through the armhole lining now and catch the hem to both sides seam allowances using a hand sewing needle and thread. Only catch the seam allowance, you don’t want to see any stitching on the outside of the jacket. Then to finish off the hem come through the opening you’ve left in the armhole lining. Catch the hem to both sides of the seam allowance using a hand sewing needle, only catch the seam allowance. If you feel the hem will not stay up just being caught to the seam allowance you can catch the hem lightly onto the fusing, to help hold them hem into position. Press this hem edge, you will notice the lining forms a small pleat at the hem. Close off the lining in the sleeve by placing the two edges together, stitch close to the edge. Just a note here, if you feel that the front band is not sitting flat, before you close off the lining, in the armhole you can go back in and catch the seam allowance by hand onto the seam allowance of the jacket. Give your garment a final press. Well done, this is not an easy garment to sew!