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Men’s Off-The-Rack Dress Shirts – Understanding The Different Fits Male Clothing

Men’s Off-The-Rack Dress Shirts – Understanding The Different Fits Male Clothing


Men’s Off-The-Rack Dress Shirts – Understanding
The Different Fits Male Clothing Hi! I’m Antonio Centeno, the founder of Real
Men Real Style, and today, we’re going to be addressing the question, “What shirt manufacturers
work best for different body types?” If you haven’t already, please subscribe to
our YouTube channel. By doing that, these videos will come right to you. And if you
like this, if you find it useful, please click on the “like” button right down there. In
addition, grab our free 47-page e-book. It’s free and it’s great and I think you’re going
to enjoy it. And last but not least, I’m going to link you to an article, which is going
to expand on what I’m talking about. Okay, this is the question that came in, “I’m
a relatively built man and it gives me a lot of problems when buying dress shirts. Pants
and jackets, I can pick up at any old thrift store, but I can’t seem to find a good fitted
shirt short of dropping $30 per shirt at the tailors. As a student, I’m looking for a way
around this. I’m wondering if you could do a post on which shirt manufacturers work best
for what builds. I know they use different models and they use different designers, but
I just want basically to figure out how this all works.” Okay, so that was the question that came in.
Unfortunately, I think I know what he wants. He basically wants a database and for us to
have Calvin Klein or Charles Tyrwhitt or Brooks Brothers, and then to break out exactly what
their measurements are and how all their sizing works because he is right. Different companies
use different models to make different types of shirts and of different fits, but the problem
with what he’s asking is that it’s not a steady target. It’s very difficult because every year, these
guys are changing the demographic that they’re going after and the target market. So the
demographics are changing in the country, so it used to be in the United States that
if you bought a shirt off the rack in the 1960s, it was a trimmer build. In the year
2012, we are a much bigger people, so most of the shirts being manufactured are for bigger
people. So the problem there is that over time, these
demographics shift, and so that does change. You’ll find that Brooks Brothers is changing
the actual models and the sizing of that. In addition, these companies oftentimes were
bought or they’ll decide to change the focus of who they’re going after. So one year, the
medium will be towards this target demographic. Two years later, they decided to go after
this group who goes for a different type of fit. And so, you can imagine I think building a
database like this is probably — it sounds like a really cool thing to do, but it’s going
to be well beyond the scope of anything I’m going to go after, so I would rather instead
arm you with this basic advice, which I think you can apply and then go out there and find
what you’re looking for. So you need to remember the general rules
are that depending on the country of origin and where it’s manufactured and the price
point it is sold at is generally going to give you an idea of what demographic they’re
going after and how it’s going to fit. So if it’s made in the United States, it’s usually
going for a larger man and those are going to be bigger, more generous cuts. If it’s
targeting and being sold in Japan, it’s going to be for a smaller, more petite cut. If it’s going to be targeted and sold in the
UK, then that’s going to be for a little bit more fit of a cut, although those guys over
there are getting pretty big, too, so they’re getting more towards Americans, but normally
those shirts are going to be a bit more tailored, a bit closer fitting to the body, but the
colors are going to be pretty simple. Now, if it’s made for Italians, it’s going
to be made close to the fit of the UK for a little bit smaller of a man, but the colors,
they’re going to have a lot more vibrant colors and they’re going to be louder, so it fits
with the personality. Again, those are very general, but that gives you an idea. If you’re
looking online, if you want to buy something made by an Italian manufacturer that’s primarily
sold in Italy, you may want to go for that if you want a little bit closer of a fit and
you want it with a little bit louder colors. Now, price point, the smaller and the lower
the price point, they’re going to try to fit more men. So if you buy a shirt, a dress shirt
at Walmart, you’re going to find that that’s going to usually be very big and very baggy
because they are trying to fit a hundred different body types into that dress shirt. Now, if
you go to a high-end men’s store and you see dress shirts being sold from $200 to $500,
you can bet that they’re going after a much more set demographic. It’s going to usually
be a man that takes better care — because he’s got more disposable income, he takes
better care of his body. Now, for the man that sent us this question,
it sounds like what he needs to do is identify those types, those higher ends, and I don’t
know what his color or fabric tastes are, but let’s say he does like a little bit more
color. Well, I would say look at clothing that’s Italian. Identify some Italian brands
and then go on eBay or perhaps go into thrift stores, put out a bounty perhaps and ask people
to be looking for these particular brands. Now, there are cities like New York where
they actually have places where a lot of these brands go into a store and you can go through. Smaller towns, it’s going to be really hard,
but then again, you may want to look at some vintage clothing because a lot of the stuff
made 30 to 40 years ago before we were eating all these manufactured, processed food and
we weren’t as big as we are — you could tell my opinion on this — but in any case, clothing
made 30 to 40 years ago was usually a bit trimmer. Okay. The last thing I would say, if you’re
spending $30 to $40 per shirt, it may be worth his time to actually learn to put in darts
himself. They’re not very difficult. You can pick up a book for a couple of dollars and
learn how to do it yourself and save yourself a lot of money. That’s my answer to the “which
shirt manufacturer”. Sorry for those of you that were looking for me to actually break
it all out, but that’s a huge project. If you have done this project, let me know and
I’ll put a link to you down below, but as far as I have seen, nobody’s done this. Take care. This has been Antonio Centeno with
Real Men Real Style. I’ll see you in the next video. Bye-bye.

31 thoughts on “Men’s Off-The-Rack Dress Shirts – Understanding The Different Fits Male Clothing

  1. thanks as usual for the information but i have to admit that I doubt I'll ever again go through all that searching and digging in the stores since I found out about all these online tailors.
    Because of the ENDLESS options, fabrics, prices and most importantly the perfect fit I just dont see any advantage in off the rack shirts ^.^
    Anyway, thanks again for your investment in these videos, amazing to see a new one every day 🙂

  2. I really like this video but it hints to something I really do not understand: quite specifically, how should something fit if you are trying to dress well? I know that if something is too baggy or too tight it doesn't look good and that everyone has a preference, but for example I will try on two different off the rack shirts/jackets and they will both fit differently. I guess what I don't understand is what exactly differentiates between ok, good, and excellent fit in clothes. Thanks -Adam

  3. @jreily88 If you're lucky you can sometimes find "large-tall" sizes that run skinny, and have them taken in a bit at the waist if needed.

  4. @jreily88 If they're sort of bending at a fixed point the jacket might be a little too tight. You could try going a chest size up and having the waist brought in a little more to compensate if it's too loose down below the ribs.

  5. @jreily88 As in you can pull the jacket out that far from your chest? No, that sounds to me like your jacket is way too loose on your chest, or else I'm not understanding you right!

  6. @jreily88 Only if you're buying a custom jacket from me 🙂 But you might take it into a local tailor and ask if they can bring it in a bit for you — it's not a terribly expensive adjustment, though there are limits to how much they can take in.

  7. i was actually pretty happy most off-the-rack shirts fit me pretty well. kinda disconcerting to know they keep changing that:(

  8. Antonio, I am 5'7" and only 140 pounds. I live in VT and it seems none of the stores around here sell anything that fits me right. Not even close. Everything is for much larger men. I could shop online but I cant try things on this way before i buy it. What do you recommend?

  9. I have very wide shoulders, a thick neck and a slim waist.. I also had problems finding well fitting dress shirts.. now I buy from Brooks Brothers in their Extra Slim cut (16-34) .. they fit me the best of all the shirts I've tried..

  10. That was a great video sir. I'm 6'2" and weigh 335 lbs. I used to be 367 lbs. in late 2009, I've lost more than 30 lbs. together. My neck size is approximately 18.5", 34" sleeve, 56" waist, 56" chest (56 Portly Long), why do you suggest, off the rack or made to measure/bespoke? Which hign-end brands are suited for me? Turnbull & Asser or Brooks Brothers?

  11. It is true that the outfit is well put together and looks like a lot of thought went into it, but orange color screams 'American tie taste'. In Europe, (I am mostly thinking about France or Germany) men don't wear orange ties except in the 1930's with a green suit. Actually we avoid bright tie colors in general, like violet/purple, yellow/gold, bright red, pink, etc. It always looks weird to see ties worn by presidents of the US because to me they often look like Christmas ties.

  12. i think hugo boss's shirt are nicely affordable for a high end brand…. they are not as overly priced like giorgio, zegna or dior, but they look nice,

  13. just a quick question, isn't this guy's shirt too big? i see the shirt 'creasing' next to the tie.i have size S (i'm a short guy) and saw my shirt doing the same when i had it on

  14. brent lue hi mr centeno i have a question about dress shirts  and cuflinks if a dress shirt has cuff links are those dress shirts on the expensive sides thanks…

  15. Been subscribed for the past couple weeks. Good stuff. Question regarding button shirt fit and button/fabric pulling at the chest.

    I've done research on the internet but no one ever mentions anything specific about it. People keep saying when buying a dress shirt, make sure the buttons don't pull at the chest. BUT … does this mean when your arms are in a completely relaxed state at your side, OR does it also mean when you're moving your arms in different directions??? I've been looking for a shirt for an upcoming family wedding event. My neck was measured at 15 inches or 15.5 inches (I think). All the shirts (even 16.5 and some 17 inch shirts) that I've tried on off the rack pulls at the buttons when I have both hands on my hips/waist (fabric/button pulling at the chest is very pronounced with my hands on my hips/waist) (OR even more extreme when I do a bench press motion, bringing my elbows back).

    When my arms are in a relaxed state hanging by my side, the shirt button area looks fine. Trim fit shirts have more pronounced button/shirt pulling, but even the standard regular fit shirts pulls at the button in a 15.5/16/16.5/17 inch shirts. And obviously as the neck size goes up, the shirt looks too baggy and overly roomy in the neck area.

  16. for any smaller guys out there, I just found the brand marc anthony. Their dress shirts are slim fit and fit great, while other 'fitted' shirts seem to still have too much fabric around the waist. The are sold at Kohls.

  17. the uk or italian cut dress shirts seem more fitted like usa shirts had back in the 1960's. van heusen and arrow are among two brands with fitted styles. it is frustrating that many brands have their own style of cuts different from other brands

  18. Try Proper Cloth! They offer more than 400 fabrics and 20 collars as well as several choices for other elements. They have classic, slim and super slim fit and offers both off-the-rack dress shirts as well as customizable made-to-measure ones (with a perfect fit guarantee). Moreover, you can get $20 off your first shirt if you sign up using this link: https://propercloth.com/i/mbu92f

  19. Great tips Antonio. Being a man with a similar build to you I have the same struggles and have had many of my off-the-rack shirts tailored to prevent them from ballooning at my waist. For the longest time I have worn Brooks Brothers slim fit which never fit me too well. I have also tried Hugh & Crye and Mizzen + Main which fit me ok, but I didn't love the quality of their shirts. I recently discovered Batch Men's https://www.batchmens.com through Instagram and their shirts fit me perfectly. I love their tailored fit which is slightly tapered at the waist and their designs. These are the first shirts that actually fit me better than my custom shirts. Do you recommend any other brands since making this video?

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