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The Secret to Buying a Perfect Suit

The Secret to Buying a Perfect Suit

a lot of my work involves fashion photography so whether that means Street South photos in New York Fashion Week or my wife's blog or commercial work I'm shooting clothes making them look good and spotting clothes that look good to me so at this point I have a pretty clear idea of what looks good on other people but I kind of neglect my own wardrobe sometimes I know enough to look professional and fit in on the job but you know what I could really use as a nice suit unfortunately that's not really my area of expertise since I don't really know things about suiting I need to talk to some experts that do so I came to Henry Sager it's easy for me to tell you about clothes that I like but it's not always clear to me what details about a particular garment attract me to it I'm missing the vocabulary of an expert henry singer has been a staple of men's fashion in Western Canada since 1938 and their new flagship store in downtown Calgary is where I can find an expert to take my suit into the next level this is Reed he's the clothing buyer here and spends a lot of time in Italy searching for the finest tailoring and drinking very small coffees so everything I know about suiting is that the way that it fits is kind of the most important thing what's the difference that I'm gonna find between a five hundred dollar and a fifteen hundred dollar suit now while there's great options at $500 and you certainly can find something that fits at $1,500 you're stepping it up into the next game which for us is a little bit more about the construction and the fabric there are two primary ways for a suit to be constructed fused which is when the garments inner linings have been glued or full canvas where the linings have been sewn which allow them to move with the body the benefits of this are that over time your body heats up the canvas and it gradually takes the shape of your body so the more you wear it the better it fits you it's still possible to find a suit that fits great at a lower price point but as you spend more that construction will not only give you a longer-lasting suit but the fabric will look and feel much nicer when I'm trying to evaluate if a suit really fits me what are the things that I need to be looking at to know whether I'm wearing the right suit or not yeah first the number one thing is the things that can't be altered so the shoulder cannot be changed we cannot let out a shoulder or take in a shoulder that's the most important part also there's a certain allowance that you are available to alter goods so if something is too tight it can only be let out so much if something is too big but only be okay cool well let's try on a few of these and you can show me what you're talkin absolutely even the most expensive suit will look awful if it doesn't fit you right but what I'm not totally clear on is how can I be sure that it is fitting me right no it's too big in the coat waist we're also getting the chest is breaking across here and I can see it in the shoulder that is fitting about a size too big this is definitely the biggest problem I see with average guys walking around baggy suits I might personally prefer a slimmer than average fit but so many guys have way too much extra fabric hanging off of them it's not a good look this whole thing walk into a store yeah actual sleeve measurement is based on the arms at rest right so if you don't walk around like this throughout the day you may drive like this you know I have my pockets maybe so that doesn't really matter what does matter is there's a general rule of thumb the sleeve should kind of hit where the wrist needs to stop all right we have another suit here that I I like this more right away do you does this fit me yeah this one for sure is a better fit so you can see again through the coat waist the fit is spot-on it's not too loose it's not too big the shoulder is fitting really really well even down through the sleeve the chest isn't breaking at all so this is the right fit for you so if this were too small for me where would I see it like what do I need to look out for so if it were too small there's only certain points that can be let out we look at the side seams along either side of the jacket or here the back through the center seam so if you felt it was too tight we can certainly give you a little bit more room through the waist or through the back now that I have my suit picked out it's time for the extremely critical step of tailoring any guy with an average ish body will be able to find something off the rack this is something I didn't really realize going into this that made-to-measure or custom suits are only really required if you've got an uncommon build for example huge muscles all over the place otherwise find a nice suit that fits and get it tailored those final details can make all the difference for example where your pants fall on your shoes if you're a pretty conservative guy your pant can just barely start to create a slight break over your shoe but if it starts folding over it looks sloppy if you want to go down the more European route showing an inch or two of ankle is acceptable and super cool personally I'm going to land somewhere in-between so after a few days of patiently waiting I got the call that my suit is ready and like that I have a new favorite suit I learned a lot in this process going through dozens of suits with somebody that's really qualified to give me advice that I can't really figure out just looking at stuff on the rack or looking at suits on other people I really have to try them on and have somebody point out all the little issues with it some of the most common problems I've had buying my own suits in the past is when there's a little bit too much space behind the collar and it separates the sits very nicely along the back the sleeve and the jacket lengths are well proportioned and there's a good balance between being able to move around but it still slim fitting like basically it's the shape of my body that's what I was hoping for of course when you buy a suit you're not buying it in isolation you're planning on a long term wardrobe so I bought a slightly bolder check since I already had a basic gray and dark blue suit I know a lot of people's first suit might be black but I actually haven't bought a black suit yet and I don't really feel like I need one it's a really formal color it's not as versatile and you'll get a lot more wear out of some of these other colors this is also the highest I've ever held my pants I've always thought it looks great on other guys but I've kind of been too conservative to go there myself and I'm really glad I did I think it looks really cool for my shirt I decided to go with white because you can never have enough white shirts they get dirty pretty quickly and what I wanted was a slightly more formal shirt that still has collar structure so usually I'll wear button-downs that have you know button here to keep the collar from flopping around this is a bit stiffer of a shirt and has this extra wide collar spread and importantly it's not going to droop down and look sloppy when I'm not wearing time a lot of my favorite things about this suit aren't even going to come across in the video because it's the way that feels and the way that it moves I really recommend that you go and try on some very expensive suits that you can't afford just to know what they're like and know what the difference is when you're shopping for a suit that you can't afford in the future and thank you again to Henry singer because having somebody like Reed guide me through this process was incredibly helpful and have a much clearer understanding looking for now so next time you're in Calgary be sure to go see them at 8th Avenue place and next time you're on Instagram come see me you

25 thoughts on “The Secret to Buying a Perfect Suit

  1. Lower the button stance, close the quarters to not show a belt, lower the pant hem, cover your ass, and yes that's a well fitting suit! Good video tho

  2. I am so surprised how few views this incredibly well presented and informative video has .
    I guess most people nowadays are just low class and wear athletic cloths all day anyways .
    Anyhow thanks for the video

  3. You guys seem to be freaking rich … I mean 500 dollars or even more for one suit?????
    Holy ** …. this is expensive. One can build a solid and versatile WARDROBE with that amount of money.

  4. You're supposed to button it when standing/walking. Unless it's a 3-piece or you are David Letterman.

  5. The suit looks nice, I am just not happy how the jacket fits him, it is too loose for him in the chest. However, if he likes it that way, I guess is okay

  6. Going down the what now? 4:26 – no, that's only the hipster part of Europe. We, normal people in Europe, wear them with a break in the front, and angled cut towards the back, tapered.

  7. Wow was that a blooper @ 6:30 or were you just talking too fast? Next time you see that them at ______place? Great video btw

  8. Great clip and subject. Personally I prefer the long trouser look, down to the shoes with no break (when standing, no socks are visible) but I understand you choice and that's fair enough. Good points ref trying Off the Rack/Off the Peg suits first before going to the trouble of Made to Measure, on the off chance the Off the Rack may be fine, especially for entry level; and also trying on more expensive suits for fit comparison.

  9. At first, I've read it as "how to buy a shit". Which isn't a reason I'm watching this video…

    No, really

  10. I must not have checked out your channel in a while. You stepped up the production big time! Well done!

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